Diymore 2pcs 20A 300W CC CV Step Down Module Adjustable DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V Voltage Regulator Buck Converter Constant Current Power Supply Module 20v to 12v Step Down

Works just fine for my use. Gets warm. I couldn’t get it to work. Then I tried adding the relay. Got it to work on a kids huffy torex utv 24v. Dropped voltage from 36v to 24v 👍

I used these on a couple of scooters to add led's to the outside and they are GREAT!!!!

As some of stated. Worst quality control ever. Shorts, bad solder on many contacts and absolute dirty. One the voltage could not be adjusted, the other voltage could be adjusted but not full range and jumping all over, not a consistent change as with other units. Do not buy! Same units come from other suppliers and work out if the box. Skip these

This works great for taking 4s (or more) lithium ion packs down to 12v. But if your antenna is close, you will likely experience some birdies (picture attached). This was with the antenna beside the device. When I ran the same test with my notmal outside antenna, sove birdies were still visible/audible. So be careful what your intended use is. Otherwise, it works great. I will certainly put this to use with some other projects.

3 volts over and the unit broke.

First and foremost, it works.Before using it, I strongly recommend getting some CA glue and gluing the terminal strips to the PC board. If you don't, you'll likely damage the connections when you try to tighten them. I took notice of other reviews that mentioned how poorly the terminal strips are attached, and checked them before connecting anything. Yes, very poorly attached (really not at all). Once you superglue them down, you stand a chance of making the connections without ripping the terminals from the board.Also be aware that depending on your input and output voltage and current, the board runs hot. I used it to drop 13-14 VDC to 10 VDC at about 8 Amps and it really runs hot. I added a small computer fan and now it runs cool. Doesn't take much air flow to cool it.

Had to drop 40V down to 30V at 2 amps. Output Voltage and current was solid until the supply voltage dropped to 31.55 volts. After and hour @ 40V input, the tightly squeezing heatsinks with my fingers indicated they were about the temperature of barely warm shower water. Very satisfied, I just wish the terminal blocks had the little "elevator" inside as opposed to just squeezing the wire!

Tried a few low current devices for a light project I've been workin' on. * see Image * They worked but just didn't have enough to expand on. So got some of these 20Amp buck inverters. Been really happy with how much work they can do while maintaining correct potential and current. That said... Each light string is about 1 meter in length. The Inverter doing the most work has 8 strings connected. Supply is 24Volts. At 20 Watts output expect some warmth from the Inverter. Beyond 30 Watts you'll want to put a fan on to cool the Inverter. Something to watch for, inrush is a thing, so if you're using this to run LED strings, be sure to set the potential within specs for the string and then set the current to suit your needs. If you only set the current, there can be an instantaneous in rush which may exceed the LED's limit and reduce their working life. Best luck to you on your project. :)

Soldering quality is very poor. Solderballs everywhere including short circuit on device pins (photo 1). Damage during shipping due to poor packaging with no padding. Broken SMD capacitor as a result (photo 2).Obviously not worth buying.